Riding the rapids

The briefing was a little disorganised, ,since there were twelve of us, and people kept wandering off. The guides arrived mob-handed, and were all black Zimbabweans – incredibly friendly, quick to laugh, and very enthusiastic. The explained the rapids normally run one to twenty-three, but that the high water levels rendered rapid as a grade 6 that was also impossible to walk around, so we had to start at eleven. The season had just opened, and we were to be some of the first to raft it, so we were just happy to be able to do it at all.

We drove the fifteen or so kilometers, then another four in the back of a flat-bed truck. I was chatting with Chosum, one of the guides about how we have to get tipped out of the boat at some point We were told there were to be two boats of six – one with just paddles and the other with the guide at the back with a sturdy pair of oars – this was the 'safer' boat. As we climbed off the truck, Chosum said quietly to me, 'Get five other people for our boat'. Clearly, he'd pegged me as being interested in a rougher ride, and wanted me to recruit five other likeminded people (in terms of adrenaline sports, I think: I'm not sure he wanted people who take lots of photos and complain about their injuries a lot). So, a very steep hike down to the river, and we found ourselves standing by a wide open part of the river, where the water eddied in circles.

We jumped into our boat, and were put through drills by Costan, who sat at the back with a single paddle. It was simple stuff, but strenuous enough to keep warm. He also had us jump out at one point to practice getting back in. There's a knack to this, which involves dunking yourself under to let the bouyancy of the lifejacket propel you upwards before dragging yourself (or being dragged) into the boat. I enquired how long we should hold people down for, and he suggested I use my foot on their heads. With that, and a signal from the videographer, we were off.

Rafting is the most fun I've had in a long time. It's fantastic, and I'd love to come back and do the first eleven rapids. Nevertheless, there were three grade fives in the stretch we did, and I nearly went out several times. I couldn't shake the nagging feeling that, for all our paddling, the guide had it all in hand. I was keen for us to capsize, but we managed to stay upright – even though, during one grade five, we were practically standing on our stern. Artto and I – the blokes – were at the front, so we took the brunt of the impacts – which was fine by me! Three rapids from the end, on a grade three, we finally hit a big churn side on and were upended. As I tumbled into the water, my first reaction was to raise my arm over my head in case someone or something was dropping on me, but I was clear. I surfaced and grabbed the side of the raft. I was just collecting my thoughts when Artto surfaced underneath me, having been under the raft. Costan was sitting on the top of the upsidedown raft and told us to move to the other side. I let go momentarily...and suddenly found myself twenty metres from the boat. I was more excited than scared, but it was amazing what the currents could do. I surfaced and saw one of the safety kayakers next to me, We had a laugh about my predicament, then I started to swim back to the raft. It proved very difficult, though, with my paddle still in my hand. So, I handed it to the kayaker, then swam back.

Once we were all back in the boat, we started on what the guides had earlier described as 'war stories'. You can imagine, can't you. Anyway, we made our way to the bottom, over a few more rapids, then hiked up to the top of the gorge, to be met by a cooler of drinks. An awesome morning.

So, rafting? Yep, loved it. The only slight issue I had is that I wonder just how much influence we have, as paddlers, on what the boat does. We had to hike round a grade six narrow, and the Costan took the boat through on his own. It's great fun, but I'd love to have a go at something that requires some training and skill from the participants. Nevertheless, immense fun for something we only needed five minutes of practice for. In my opinion, it has the advantages of feeling very dangerous and unpredictable, while actually being very safe indeed.

The other thing is, I can't help suspecting that, while Costan didn't deliberately capsize us, I think he probably put us in a position where it might happen. He picked up our vibe, I think, and I don't think it was a mistake we hit the wave side-on. It's also interesting that, if I was to choose somewhere for my clients to go in the water, it'd be in a nice grade three, rather than a dangerous grade five.

And the setup? The whole thing was brilliant, from start to finish. I don't know if it's because of low wages, or lack of work, but there must have been twenty or so people involved – five or six 'safety' kiaks, A photographer and a videographer on the shore, guys with the trucks, with coolers full of drinks. They all did a brilliant job.

Oh yes, one more thing: I met two guys on the truck that had been rafting – a South African and an Australian. They're airline pilots for Emirates out of Dubai, and had been competing in a race in their private plane in Zimbabwe. They were now exploring, and were due to fly to Kruger tomorrow. They had a spare space. Why, oh why didn't I grab that one?