23/7/08 20:29

I'm in the bar, tapping away, surrounded by people drinking, playing darts, discussing cameras... I'm feeling a bit rough, would you ever believe it? I have earache – the literal kind, rather than metaphorical. It's the same side as my wisdom tooth, so I'm seriously hoping this doesn't mean a re-occurance. Surely life couldn't be that cruel? (to you or to me)

A great game drive today, though. We were up and into minibuses at 6am, for the drive to Lake Nakuru National Park. The minibus we were in was cramped, and with eight people it was practically full. When we reached the park, I was mildly peturbed to realise we'd be game driving in said minibus. Hmm. Still, the centre of the roof cranked up so we could stick our heads out of the top. And off we went.

Let me tell you, the place was probably the best game reserve I've been to. Despite having no elephants, there's a lot of other stuff, it's very visible and largely unworried by vehicles. We saw a lion feeding on a dead buffalo from about ten metres, rhinos from five metres, giraffes and all sorts of other stuff. It was fantastic, and I've managed to bag quite a few decent photos. The driver, however, wasn't really much of a guide...

(Upon spotting a bird of prey sitting in a tree)

Me: Hey, what type of bird is that?
Driver: It's, um, a bird of prey.
Me: Yes, what type?
Driver: It's not a Fish Eagle.

Fantastic. Ta very much for that.

As I've said before, it's amazing how one gets blasé about animals. Amelia – our Australian journalist – having never been to a game park before, was saying, 'not another rhino. I want to see them having sex.' Of course, the baboons didn't disappoint her. They proved very entertaining, actually, particularly when one climbed into our empty mini bus while we were standing around outside. Sadly, I didn't get a photo, as I was too busy shouting at the driver. It turns out that, when I shouted, 'Excuse me!' to the driver, at least two people thought I was talking to the baboon.

The drive back was an experience in itself. We drove into Nakuru, in the pouring rain. dodging taxis, trucks and people on their way home from work. Every piece of shelter had rows of locals standing under it, just looking out at the rain and road. It's a funny thing, Africa. People seem to have far too much on their hands. Well, that's not fair, of course. They have a lot of time on their hands, so I guess that's why they're never in any hurry. I saw a woman sitting by the side of the road, peeling vegetables yesterday. She did it in slow motion, but then, it's probably the only task she had to do all day. But I digress. So, we found ourselves on a road – a road we'd taken that morning. We drove down it five hundred metres to find it shut. No signs, no nothing. So, twenty minutes of three-point turns, mud tracks, hand signals and arguments with local truck drivers followed. Just a crazy place, Africa, with no-one in charge. We eventually negotiated our way around the blockage and found a diversion sign for traffic coming from the other side. To be honest, I think the only reason it was there at all was because there must have been someone with a big enough piece of cardboard and a crayon handy.

Rob had managed to whip us up a lasagne somehow, which was nice, so we've been in the bar playing drinking games while the rain hammered down on the tin roof. I've already had to stifle three leaks in my tent using tissue paper, so it should be okay until morning. A couple of the others haven't been so lucky – mainly because they didn't take action early enough. They're now complaining loudly, and I think Rob may cop an earful in the morning. Yes, the tents shoudln't leak, but being right isn't going to make you any drier, is it? Playing drinking games with this lot is an experience – one or two of them are so bad at them. Leigh – a school teacher – couldn't get the hang of 'fives'. 'Fifty-five!', she yelled out, during a game with only five players.** Alex then tried, 'six!' Dear, oh dear.

A nine o'clock start tomorrow, and an hour in Nakuro for banks and t'interweb. I need to sort out how I'm getting to Nairobi from Zanzibar, and do a bit of research. Maybe a few days of windsurfing...

**max. twenty-five, in case you don't know the game.